“Gates of Hell”: why gas has been burning in the Karakum Desert for decades
A fiery crater in the middle of the sands, visible from miles away. Where it came from, why no one puts it out, and how to spend a night at its edge.
In this article
In the middle of the Karakum Desert, a few hours' drive from Ashgabat, there's a place where the ground has been burning for decades. The Darvaza Crater, known to everyone as the “Gates of Hell,” is Turkmenistan's signature sight for travelers from around the world.
How It Came to Be
No one knows the exact story — hardly any documents survive. The best-known version goes like this: in the 1970s, geologists were searching for gas here. During drilling, the ground collapsed, creating a large pit that began leaking gas. To keep it from poisoning everything around, they decided to set it alight, expecting it to burn out in a few days.
But the gas never ran out. The fire is still burning today.
What Visitors See
The crater is about 70 meters across and roughly 30 meters deep. Hundreds of flames flicker across its floor and walls, and the heat at the rim is so intense you can't get too close.
By day, the crater looks like a big pit with a haze above it. But after sunset everything changes: the flames turn bright orange, the glow reflects off the sky, and the fire can be seen from far away.
Why It Isn't Put Out
Turkmen authorities have said more than once that they want to extinguish the crater: the gas burning off for nothing could be put to good use. But that's easier said than done. For now, the “Gates of Hell” keep burning, and travelers from all over the world come to see them with their own eyes.
How to Spend a Night at the Crater
Most visitors arrive by 4x4 in the afternoon. First comes a walk around the crater in daylight, then dinner by the campfire and the sunset, and then the main show: the crater in the dark.
People stay nearby in tents or yurts. The desert is quiet at night, the sky overhead is full of stars, and an orange glow shines in the distance.
Tip: even in summer, desert nights are chilly. Bring a warm sweater — and a tripod for photos: fire in the dark is best shot with a long exposure.
How to get there
The drive from Ashgabat takes about four hours, with the last stretch over sand by 4x4. A trip to the “Gates of Hell” is usually part of a Turkmenistan itinerary along with Ashgabat, Merv and Kunya-Urgench.
All of this is included in our tour “Turkmenistan: From Merv to Ashgabat” — with a guide, visa support and transportation the whole way.
