Expedition to Razdelnaya Peak (6148 m)

Cloth

• Thermal underwear: 2 sets (thin for transitions and thick/wool for sleeping and assault);
• Fleece jacket: dense layer (like Polartec 200);
• Membrane jacket and trousers: protection from wind and snow (Gore-Tex);
• Down sweater (thin down jacket): for warmth in intermediate camps;
• Warm expedition down jacket: with hood, rated for -25°C;
• Softshell trousers: for transitions between BC and Camp 1;
• Verkhonki (mittens): down or synthetic «mittens» for assault;
• Gloves: 2 pairs (thin fleece and thick windproof);
• Hat: thick, covers the ears + Buff (2 pcs.) to protect the face;
• Socks: 3-4 pairs of trekking socks + 2 pairs of thick thermal socks for climbing'
• Underwear: synthetics (cotton gets wet quickly and is cold at altitude).

Shoes

• High-altitude boots: double (with a removable liner) or modern three-layer boots. Regular trekking boots are not suitable above 5,300 m;
• Trekking shoes/boots: for base camp and the trail to Camp 1;
• Sandals/flip-flops: for resting your feet in camp.

Climbing equipment

• Crampons: Suitable for your high altitude boots;
• Ice axe: classic, with lanyard;
• Helmet: mountaineering (required);
• Safety system: lightweight, does not restrict movement over clothing;
• Self-belay and carabiners: 3-4 locking carabiners;
• Jumar: for climbing the railings;
• Trigger device;
• Trekking poles: must have wide rings for snow;
• Sunglasses: protection category 4 (no lower!) Regular glasses will burn your retina;
• Ski mask: in case of strong winds and snowstorms.

Tourism and bivouac

• Sleeping bag: comfort temperature no higher than -20°C⋯-25°C (Comfort);
• Assault backpack (45–55 l): for exits;
• A duffel bag or a large backpack (80–100 l): for carrying all your things into the mountains;
• Mat (sleeping mat): a combination of inflatable and regular foam is best;
• Thermos: 1 liter, metal;
• Headlamp: + 2 sets of spare batteries (in the cold they run out instantly);
• Personal first aid kit: plasters, remedies for altitude sickness, your personal medications;
• Sunscreen: factor 50+ and lip balm with SPF;
• Hygiene: wet wipes, toothbrush, soap;
• Electronics: Power bank (minimum 20,000 mAh) and solar battery (optional).

Experience in high-altitude climbing is desirable but not required, as long as you have good physical fitness, basic mountaineering skills (rope, ice axe, and crampons), and experience hiking at altitudes up to 5,000 m. This is an ideal peak for your first experience at 6,000 m, but without preparation, the expedition can be dangerous due to the altitude and weather.

The route does not contain extremely technical sections, but it does include snow and ice slopes (up to 35°), crevasse crossings using ropes and crampons, and potential avalanche risk. It requires basic mountaineering skills but is suitable for experienced beginners without any previous experience in difficult climbing.

Acclimatization occurs in stages: from Base Camp (3,600 m) – hikes to 4,000-4,200 m; at Camp 1 (4,400 m) – hikes to 4,700-5,130 m with an overnight stay or descent; then a trek to Camp 2 (5,300 m) and acclimatization there before the summit push. This takes 4-6 days, with the "climb high, sleep low" principle to adapt to the altitude.

• The process follows a classic "sawtooth" schedule for altitude adaptation: participants ascend to altitude, undergo exercise, and then descend overnight to a lower altitude to allow the body time to recover.
• In the first days, radial exits are made from the Base Camp to the ridge of Petrovsky Peak (up to 4000–4400 m).
• After moving to Camp 1 (4400 m), the group makes an acclimatization hike to Domashniy Peak (4750 m) or Yukhin Peak (5130 m), followed by a mandatory rest day before the assault ascents.

The base camp (BC) is called "Achik-Tash" and is located in the picturesque Alai Valley in the Edelweiss meadow.
It is located at an altitude of 3,600 meters above sea level. The camp is reached by a dirt road. The transfer from Osh takes approximately 4-5 hours.

A standard ascent program takes 12 to 15 days (including arrival and departure days). This is precisely the amount of time required for the circulatory and respiratory systems to gradually adapt to the thin air.
Short tours (less than 10-11 days) carry a significant risk of acute mountain sickness, so reliable operators do not offer such durations.

Yes, most programs include 1-2 reserve days to account for bad weather, additional acclimatization, or rest to increase the chances of a successful summit bid.
The guide can also use this day for additional rest for the group at an altitude of 4400 m if he sees that the participants are having difficulty acclimatizing.

Yes, it's possible to travel via Bishkek with a flight to Osh, then transfer to Base Camp. This is the standard option for those arriving in the capital. The Bishkek-to-Bishkek package costs an additional $350 per person.

This price includes:

• 2 nights in a hotel in Bishkek
• air ticket Bishkek – Osh – Bishkek
• Airport-hotel-airport transfers – 4 times

Citizens of CIS countries (Russia, Belarus, Kazakhstan, Armenia, Azerbaijan, etc.) have a visa-free entry into Kyrgyzstan.

However, since you're planning an expedition to Razdelnaya Peak, there are important details regarding documents and border zones. Here are the details:

Entry documents

1. International passport: This is the most reliable option for all CIS citizens. It must be valid for at least six months after the end of the trip.
2. Internal passport: Citizens of other CIS countries most often require a foreign passport.

Advice for climbers: Although Russian citizens can enter with a Russian internal passport, I strongly recommend bringing a foreign passport for participation in the expedition. Reason: Border zone permits (detailed below) and insurance are usually tied to foreign passport information.

Registration at the place of stay

The rules depend on citizenship and length of stay:

• Russia, Kazakhstan, Belarus, Armenia: Can stay in Kyrgyzstan without registration for up to 30 days;
• Tajikistan, Uzbekistan: Rules can be stricter (often "60+ days" visa-free, but registration required after 5 days).

Since the expedition to Razdelnaya Peak lasts approximately 15 days, most participants from the Russian Federation and Kazakhstan do not require additional registration with the migration service.